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What scales
do you work in?
Most models
in the Gallery are in the gaming scales of 20mm and 28mm (1:76 and 1:60
to the uninitiated). But along the way I've made 1:300 Vauban fortifications,
1:100 architectural models, 1:32 display models and even 1:1 and 3:1
industrial product models, so I'm fairly versatile. I enjoy the challenge
of adapting techniques to give the right look in a different scale.
With many models
for gaming and display, by the way, there's an element of non-scale
'condensing' that goes on, more or less. An average house made to exactly
the same scale as a figure standing alongside would dwarf it. The art
is to reduce the overall bulk while maintaining a credible 'look'. How
far this process is taken depends on what you want the model for. Some
of the models in the galleries are very condensed indeed and they are
designed to be grouped in 'village units', others are much closer to
a true scale size.
What are the
models made of?
A wide variety
of traditional and innovative materials is used to get the optimum appearance
and strength. The basic sheet material used for walls is mostly either
wood or plastic. Metal comes in the form of rods, tubes and etched brass
frets. I use specialised resins in places, moulding and casting a detail
that's repeated.
When it comes to the landscape natural materials come to the fore: cork,
tiny leaves and carefully-selected twigs. I do use some scenic materials
designed for the architectural and railway modelling trades, but won't
touch commercial 'flock'. I feel it's generally either too lurid in
colour or too drab, and it's always too uniform (real foliage gives
a speckled appearance). So for leaves I use blends of hand-dyed cork
granules.
I want a village
to go with my Azande tribesmen, but I don't even know what it ought
to look like. Is that a problem?
Not really, no. I have built up quite a reference library, covering
the buildings and landscape of most periods and most parts of the world,
and I know where to research anything outside that. On the other hand,
if you can send a photocopy or scan of a picture showing the sort of
thing you had in mind, it means I can see what inspired you and make
sure the model you receive captures that spirit.
All the models
in the Gallery are of historical subjects. Would
you do fantasy or futuristic models?
Yes, that's something I'd love to get my teeth into. If you feel like
treating yourself to some '40K' terrain that will knock your friends'
socks off, give me a call.
How strong or
fragile are the models?
I design most things to be robust enough for a good bit of handling.
For example, structures are well braced and any delicate elements either
reinforced with metal rod or carefully positioned to be protected by
another part of the model. So if your model accidentally gets knocked
on the floor it should be OK. For some models, photographic backdrops,
say, robustness may be much less critical and that can save time. If,
on the other hand, you fear the attentions of pets/ kids/ chainsaw-wielding
maniacs, we'd need to plan accordingly.
Do you have
a stall at trade shows?
Not properly, as I'm too busy making models. I would eventually like
to do something at shows and maybe even make it to Historicon in the
US some day.
Why don't you
make and sell ready-made resin castings?
There are plenty of folks selling nice models in that way already. I
wanted to do something a bit different, more varied. To me it's more
satisfying making something different every few weeks.
How did you
learn to make models like this?
I've been in the gaming hobby for over 30 years now and always made
my own scenery as an aspect of that. I found it satisfying and developed
it over the years, making models for friends and the occasional customer.
I drew on the techniques used by railway and military modellers, but
my biggest influence was the works and writings of the masters in the
gaming field, to whom I freely acknowledge my debt: Peter Gilder, 'Stan
Catchpol' and Ian Weekley, more recently Dave Andrews, Herb Gundt and
Gary Chalk.
A few years back, I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity of
making the change from my office-based career and returning to study.
I decided to train as a professional modelmaker, via the Model Design
scheme run by the University of Hertfordshire. A highly regarded course
in its field, this taught me the specialised skills used in architectural
and industrial modelling, together with the film and TV props industry.
What I really wanted to do however, was to bring the insights, techniques,
materials and tools I had studied back into the area of modelmaking
that I have found so enjoyable over the years. The result is Architectural
Miniatures.
What sort of
prices do you charge?
It really depends on what you want made, but most pieces do involve
many hours of painstaking craftsmanship so cannot realistically be cheap
in price. The amount of detail is what governs the price of a model,
far more than the scale or overall size. I'm always happy to discuss
a project you might have in mind and give you an estimate of cost.
What about delivery?
For overseas customers secure packaging and carriage will need to be
arranged, which will be charged at cost. UK customers may often be able
to save this cost by arranging to collect their model at one of the
many shows, if that's more convenient.
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